This is so aromatic and beautiful with cherry, berry, hazelnut and Indian spices. It’s full-bodied with firm, velvety tannins that show form and brilliance. It’s extremely long and sophisticated. Tight at the finish. Try after 2024.

A chameleonlike red, with hallmark aromas and flavors of tomato sauce, cherry, macerated plum, iron and wet hay. The ripe fruit gets sweeter in this red as it builds to the vice grip of tannins on the finish, with the sweet fruit returning in the end.

The Poderi Aldo Conterno 2017 Barolo Bussia shows a dark but busy quality of fruit that speaks more to the power of this hot vintage than it does the nuanced side of Nebbiolo. In this respect, the wine is quite typical of the 2017 growing season. It takes a while before the wine finds focus in the glass, but it does slowly come together to reveal broad layers of dark cherry, cassis and plum. There is some tannic tightness that leads to sour berry. A bit awkward at this young stage, it needs a few more years of cellar age to flesh out and reach balance.