It's a strange irony that the producer most famous for restoring the reputation of Soave as a fine wine no longer labels his wines as Soave. Roberto Anselmi left the restrictions of the appellation behind long ago and now makes his own rules. The wines remain superb, and for us Capitel Croce is his best. Rich with citrus, apricot and almond flavors, dry and beautifully balanced, it is Soave as it should be.

Light floral and fresh herb notes accent the flavors of white cherry, ground white pepper, apricot and orange zest. Light-bodied and fresh, with a hint of almond on the finish.