Graphite dominates the nose, with restrained wild blackberry, meat, balsamic and aromatic herb notes. The attack is smooth, with a full body, youthful fruit character and muscular yet super-refined tannins allied to refreshing acidity and a polished tobacco aftertaste. It needs to age for a year or two to integrate the oak, but this will last for decades.

The Arnaldo Caprai 2020 Montefalco Sagrantino 25 Anni opens to an inky-dark appearance and thick concentration that is underlined by the intensity of the grape but also of the hot vintage. This is a bold, bruising wine with layers of blackcurrant, bitter chocolate and tarry spice. All of these elements are elevated in terms of power and definition. The Caprai winemaking team famously worked on taming the tannins of Sagrantino, and although the grit and personality of the grape is fundamental in this case, the 25 Anni is a modern and international expression.

A gentle infusion of licorice root, rooibos tea, dried rosemary and milled pepper is a fragrant skein winding through baked black cherry, black plum and boysenberry fruit flavors. This is well-meshed and integrated despite its full-bodied, broad-shouldered stature, with the dense core of fine, creamy-edged tannins emerging only at the tail end of the midpalate and through to the firm finish. Best from 2027 through 2045. 750 cases made, 100 cases imported.