Description
This estate is so small, it was hard to find any particular commentary on the 2021 vintage. I have been extremely impressed by all of the bottlings from Noellat that I have tasted. I picked this Vosgne Romaneé from a tasting with Michel Cherulin Noellat. His name will replace his father's on all bottlings beginning with the 2021 vintage. Based on the wines that I have tasted from the difficult 2021 vintage, the quality of wines that come from this estate will not suffer, an in fact, may well improve with the next generation winemaker.
History
Georges Noëllat was the nephew of Charles Noëllat, who was once the proprietor of one of Vosne’s greatest domaines—a domaine who made important contributions to Domaines Jean-Jacques Confuron and Hudelot Noëllat, and even formed the vast majority of Domaine Leroy. As of 1990, Domaine Georges Noëllat sold its production to Jadot and Drouhin for 20 years. Enter 20-year-old Maxime Cheurlin in 2010, who consequently took over the management of the estate from his grandmother. Cheurlin grew up in Champagne, but it seems Burgundy wine is truly in his blood as he is a nephew of the Jayer family and a cousin of Emmanuel Rouget’s sons. Thus, he complemented his winemaking studies at the Lycée du Viticole in Beaune with stages at Domaine Emmanuel Rouget and Domaine Gros Frère et Soeur in 2009.
Terroir
Small but mighty, the 5.5-hectare domaine includes some of the most profound terroirs of Vosne Romanée and northern Nuits St Georges. Maxime inherited a large proportion of old vines that he intends to preserve, requiring special attention and care. The viticultural approach is thus lutte raisonnée, and treatments are only implemented in response to an imminent threat.
Winemaking
Even so early into his winemaking career, Maxime has already earned a reputation for his elegant style. Grapes are hand-harvested, 100% de-stemmed (except in a few rare cases where up to 30% of stems may be included), and cool macerated for a few days before fermentation begins (native yeasts only). Maxime prefers the term “infusion” to extraction, so punch downs are rare and gentle. Deeming that the intensity of his terroirs can stand up to new oak, he uses 30 to 100% depending on the appellation and vintage. Aging lasts 14 to 20 months, and the wines are bottled generally without fining or filtration.
Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue 53: “As to the style of the wines, they are understated and impressively crafted wines that emphasize purity of fruit and refinement, indeed they could well be described as delicate. One might wish for a bit more body and weight but that is more of a stylistic comment because the wines are beautifully well-balanced and speak clearly of their underlying terroirs.”